Valenciennes: The Return Part 1

Album de Croy - image of Valenciennes in 16th century

 

Once checked into the Hôtel Notre Dame, I had a day and a half to spend at the library before the big day. I felt proud to be able to use my own library ticket, just like a local.

 

This time I had a long list to consult and once again was amazed by the helpful staff at Bibliothèque Valenciennes. ***

 

As there was lots to read (which would be slow as everything was in French), I took photos of a book about the 13th century Countesses Marguerite and Jeanne of Flanders and Hainault. I also found, by chance, Luc Richir's Marguerite Porete: Une âme au travail de l'Un (A Soul at Work for the One).

 

I returned to the Hôtel Notre Dame, feeling I was well and truly back on the trail of Marguerite.

 

 

*** Click here for an exhaustive  bibliography of texts I consulted in writing the novel

 

 

The Virgin's Day

Beginning of the Tour du Saint Cordon

 

 

8th September 2013

 

The Virgin's Nativity fell on a Sunday this year and at the end of the Mass I joined the crowds in front of the Musée. This is where the procession would begin.

 

I wasn't prepared for how emotional I would feel when I saw the raft with the Virgin lifted high onto the shoulders of the men and everyone else singing pilgrim hymns. Tears stung my eyes. Something to ponder, as I'm not a Roman Catholic and Mary had never played any particular part in my devotions. Perhaps it was more likely connected with my deep sense of connection with the history of this place, that this is where Marguerite, 7 centuries ago would have experienced the procession each year.

 

 

The Archbishop of Cambrai

The clergyman to the right of the Virgin's effigy is the present Archbishop of Cambrai.

 

Let's hope things have moved on since the Bishop of Cambrai, Philippe de Marigny, sent Marguerite to the Inqusitor of France on suspicion of heresy. Lord Philippe was one of Philippe le Bel's right-hand men. Soon after Marguerite's arrest he was promoted to the Archbishopric of Sens (1309). In May 1310 he was responsible for precipitating the first burnings of Templars from his diocese.

 

In 2007, some 700 years after their arrests on Friday 13th October 1307, the Vatican officially declared the Templars innocent of heresy.

 

I'd love to see Marguerite Porete declared innocent, especially since the first modern English translation of her book The Mirror of Simple Souls in the 1920s was given the Benedictine stamp of approval by the Downside monks. The text Clare Kirchberger translated was still anonymous then. The truth of authorship was discovered in 1946 by Italian medievalist Romana Guarnieri. It's now 80 Years on and still no apology from the Vatican for Marguerite.

 

Re-dressing the Virgin

 

 

Half way round the city we stopped at what I think was a convent school. The Virgin was borne inside. We could see through the gateway that the Virgin's rich golden robe was taken off and She was re-dressed in a white lace veil. 

 

On through the streets we processed on this lovely warm day. 

We made more stops en route, praying at the different churches.

 

Carriers changed over now and again, and I noticed that some women took up their places beneath the raft. I wondered if that was allowed back in the day. I remember the first time I was the priest-in-charge of a parish, when the Good Friday ecumenical walk of witness took place; there was some consternation that I took my turn, just like the rest of the clergy, carrying the wooden cross through the streets of Crayford. It was a humbling experience in more ways than one.

 

Here in Valenciennes, a group of men walked alongside the raft carrying bunches of what turned out to be boxwood. 

 

The Virgin carried through the Place d'Armes

 

 

Here we are in the Place d'Armes, central square of Valenciennes. The 'Ave Marias' were still being sung.

 

In the Middle Ages this square was where the 'Grande Place' was situated. Most likely it was the spot where Marguerite's first book was burnt by the then Bishop of Cambrai, Guido di Collemezzo. We don't know exactly when, but it must have been before January 1306 when Philippe de Marigny became bishop.

 

 

 

 

 

I don't have the skills to post videos here, so if you follow the links below, you can watch parts of the Tour du Saint Cordon 2013:

 

 

Start of Tour du Saint Cordon at the Musée, Valenciennes

 

Follow this link to see the procession in the Place d'Armes

 

Click here for September Field Trip Part 2

 

 

 

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© Susan Shooter